The bar of Le Grand Hôtel de Clermont has become known as ‘Chez Ammad’ thanks to its proprietor, who has manned it for more than 50 years. The warm welcome from Ammad and his son is lavished on the local clientele of cheery, cheeky, eccentric old regulars form the neighbourhood. Under the low ceiling is an old-style bar and ageless murals and paintings on the walls. You never get bored here, as it’s a place for animated conversations between the clientele, often with a spot of dancing to the Brazilian funk and jazz soundtrack after a few drinks. Avoid the slightly unsanitary toilets in the courtyard, though they do have amusing drawings on the walls.