Le Café Noir
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In the St-Blaise district (the former village of Charonne annexed to Paris in 1860), with views on to the village church, this gorgeous high-ceilinged café, decorated with old cafetières, draws in artists, workers and an up-beat crowd of local trendies for a spot of coffee and a verre de vin throughout the day. At mealtimes expect inventive French cuisine, with the likes of foie gras speckled with speculoos biscuits, magret of duck with cardamom and vanilla, and pineapple and mango trifle.