A forward-thinking and playful wine bar. There are no less than 100 varieties on display in self-service cabinets, each with detailed tasting notes available via touchscreen. Bottles are classified according to their robustness, from the lightest whites to the stickiest fortified vintages, via fruity reds and tannic wines. Each client gets a loyalty card (€2 if you don’t want a permanent one) which keeps track of everything you’ve drunk – useful information for the delightful staff who advise you on each visit. Once you’ve added credit, you insert the card into one of the distribution points and choose your vintage. Price varies from €1.40 to €7, depending on the wine and the amount you drink. World wines and small independent producers are covered as well as the big oak-aged bottles, and the range is regularly updated. You can also buy the bottles that most take your fancy.
There are some great dishes available to mop up the booze, available in large or small portions (€12 or €22). The only downside is the slightly stuffy after-work atmosphere, perhaps the fault of the bar’s location near the businessmen- and tourist-traps of the Place Vendôme and Champs-Elysées. Here’s hoping they open a Wine by One in a more bohemian neighbourhood, with a warmer décor and a local late-night crowd.