Burgers, hot dogs and fish ’n’ chips have all had the gourmet treatment in Paris, and now it’s the turn of the humble kebab. Grillé has vowed to turn these greasy late-night embarrassments into something healthy and full of flavour. The décor matches the intent, with a studiedly simple blue and white ceramic look under plain neon lights. Opened on the corner of the Rue Sainte-Anne and the Rue Saint-Augustin and run by three well-known names (Marie Carcassonne, famous butcher Hugo Desnoyer and Frédéric Peneau of Chateaubriand), it draws the crowds – we had to wait 40 minutes, and there’s no guarantee of a table at the end, as there are just three available.
Bit once you do have your kebab in hand, it is a cut above the average. Organic homemade wrap, salad, fresh mint and coriander, and meat selected by the honourable Mr Desnoyer – no greasy gyro this, but milk-fed lamb marinated in rosemary, soya and sake. Sauces are also homemade, and the overall feeling is almost like you could squeeze the kebab into diet plan, washed down with one of Grillé's blood orange or blackcurrant juices. The prices could be worse as well, given the competition for gourmet fast food, but €10 for a set menu seems reasonable. Whether the kebab houses of Paris will be put out of business remains to be seen, but this is, at least, good news for cardiologists.