Pastelaria Belém

A little blue-and-white painted café just near the Rome metro, this pastelaria is named for a famous Portuguese café in the Belém neighbourhood in Lisbon. There’s a handful of marble tables, pots of powdered cinnamon, Superbock beer in the fridge, beautiful azulejos tiles on the walls, a Portuguese-speaking clientele, a moustachioed waiter and Delta coffee in the percolator – apart from the lack of sunshine, you’d almost believe yourself in Alfama. The pasteis de nata custard tarts aren’t quite the real thing, but the coffee hits the spot and it’s a delightful place to ring the changes from other more typical Parisian cafés.