Tucked below Montmartre and a three-minute walk from Pigalle metro station, Grand Pigalle Experimental is one of a number of hotels, restaurants and bars operated by the Experimental group in Paris. The lobby is small but stylish – I’ve never before felt compelled to comment on how a hotel displays the room keys, but behind the reception desk, the neat rows of keys hanging from their elegant tasseled leather keychains is undoubtedly a nice touch.
Unsurprisingly (given the proportions of the classic Haussmannian apartment block this hotel calls home), rooms are comparatively small but comfortable and include thoughtful details (such as a plug adaptor for international guests). Our room for the night is clean but compared to the public spaces, a little basic, with the walls left pretty bare and minimal furniture. The designer did take a risk with a leopard print carpet, however. This borderlilne trashy choice would be very out of place in a swankier arrondissement but it works here, and I take it as a nod to the area’s racier past. While not actually small in terms of square footage, the dramatically sloping eaves mean much of the floorspace is unusable, but being right up under the roof has its perks: from this vantage point, guests can enjoy impressive views of the Sacré-Cœur and the neighbourhood’s beautiful architecture.
The real standout of our stay is Frenchie Pigalle, the hotel’s restaurant. Here, chef Gregory Marchand cooks up his ‘sexy-trash’ dishes, a descriptor that belies the serious skill and refinement on display here. Dishes are best shared, and our small plates included the unctuous and fresh ceviche and the witty trompe-l'œil ’crème brûlée’ (which is actually a smoky butternut squash dip under a caramelised topping, served with a springy brioche bun and pickled vegetables). Our larger plate, the monkfish in bouillabaisse, was comforting and hearty and we finished things off with a tasty (and very generous) take on a banoffee pie and a rich and satisfying chocolate pudding. Breakfast is equally as delicious and at €23 for a hot drink, fresh juice, bread with butter and jam, a pastry, yoghurt, granola, fresh fruit, and a hot dish such as pancakes or avocado toast, it’s exceptional value for money, too.
Neighbourhood
Pigalle was once known as Paris’s red light district, and traces of this can still be found on Boulevard de Clichy, where you’ll find the world-famous Moulin Rouge, late night cabarets and sex shops. Meanwhile SoPi, or South Pigalle, has transformed into a hipster enclave, with some of Paris’s coolest boutiques, bistros and cafes.
Nearby
- Les Arlots: for great bistrot food and excellent wines
- La Machine du Moulin Rouge: right next to the iconic Moulin Rouge, this is one of the best clubs in Paris
- Terrass’’ Hotel: for unbeatable views of the Eiffel Tower from the rooftop bar
Time Out Tip
Some of the city’s prettiest streets, including Rue des Abbesses and Rue des Martyrs, are a short walk from the hotel. Head out early for a pre-breakfast stroll – the area gets busy as the day goes on, especially in summer.
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