Monsieur Aristide is a fantasy figure, a charming piece of storytelling set to conjure up the spirit of Montmartre. As portrayed by this delightfully eccentric neighbourhood hotel, Monsieur Aristide is a singular Parisian gentleman who loves art, music, cabaret and fine-living. His discreet 19th-century home stands on a cobblestoned street that meanders around the Butte Montmartre. Aristide’s presence evokes the arty cabarets that made Montmartre the centre of bohemian Paris – but also appeals to the Emily in Paris crowd.
Set amidst galleries and bistrots, this quirky boutique retreat still feels true to that elusive mood. At its heart, the hotel’s Café Aristide is a Parisian bistrot and bar inspired by the golden age of Montmartre, with the décor a nod to the Belle Epoque. In the retro-chic lounge, the mahogany and travertine bar and the floral banquettes are the stage-set for a night of cabaret or live music. That story flows seamlessly into yours, from the vintage jukebox to the retro-chic bedrooms, taking in a secret garden and sun-terrace which is currently yours.
Why stay at Hôtel Monsieur Aristide?
In such a sought-after spot as Montmartre it’s exceptional to find a garden, sun-terrace, reliable restaurant and bar in a small boutique hotel. Even more surprising is the fact that this hideaway succeeds on most levels, from the seasonal restaurant-bar to the stylish bedrooms and sleek bathrooms. Monsieur Aristide’s 25 cosy rooms and chic suites mostly entrance couples or friends, though family rooms are available, with the garden suites highly suitable.
The friendly staff can do anything from setting you up with a picnic basket to telling you about the cutest cafes or the wildest neighbourhood clubs. If wished, there’s also advice on how to do Emily in Paris, ideally not in sky-high heels on the cobblestones. But best of all you are made to believe that you belong in Montmartre. Monsieur Aristide’s gift is making all guests feel welcome, whether that’s by being gay-friendly or family-friendly.
What are the rooms like at Hôtel Monsieur Aristide?
Half the 25 rooms enjoy a garden view, even from a balcony or terrace, with the garden suite opening onto a patio and private garden. Despite the faintly retro vibe, the comfortable, well-designed rooms are pared back and blend wood and stone. The top-floor duplex suite feels like a sophisticated Parisian apartment. The bathrooms are all contemporary, despite vintage taps, and are perfect for slathering on the Grown Alchemist potions, with the mandarin and rose body cream a particular favourite.
The retro-chic vibe is reflected in the vintage mirrors, side-tables and ceramic lamps, mostly found in flea markets. Old transistor radios have been repurposed as smart speakers. Monsieur Aristide’s magpie eye can also be seen in the watercolours, musical scores and sketches of Montmartre that adorn the walls. Upcycling is a virtue so rubble from the hotel renovation was repurposed to form the terrazzo floor of the restaurant-bar.
What is the food like at Hôtel Monsieur Aristide?
This is a true neighbourhood haunt: even the locals are drawn to Sunday brunch on the secret terrace hidden from the street. Niche local producers are favoured here, including for Parisian-supplied ice cream, cheeses, roasted coffee and even beer. Breakfast means still-warm baguettes and croissants, organic scrambled eggs and pastries, whether enjoyed on a cosy banquette by the bar, on the covered terrace or in the bucolic garden extension.
The bistrot menu is simple but seasonal, bringing a certain je-ne-sais-quoi to Mediterranean classics and small plates. The mezze may feature artichoke caviar, fennel salad, or polenta with gorgonzola, along with cheese plates and desserts like a rather nice orange and pear tart. In winter, Le Chalet d’Aristide takes over the heated terrace, with mountain-style comfort food like raclette washed down with Savoie wines.
What is the service like at Hôtel Monsieur Aristide?
Manning reception, Louis-Marie must be in the running for the accolade of most engaging hotel host ever. Apart from being a mine of information about local activities, he embodies the boho spirit of Monsieur Aristide, with witty advice about the neighbourhood, clubs and cats. His only competition is Antoine, the multitalented manager, whose alter ego Antwan takes over when he moves into performance mode as a polished singer and cabaret artiste. Nothing is as it seems in Monsieur Aristide but that’s the magical spirit of Montmartre.
What are the facilities like at Hôtel Monsieur Aristide?
Monsieur Aristide prefers to talk of loafer pursuits – facilities are so vulgar. Even so, the retro bar is a lovely place for coffee, freshly-squeezed juices or creative cocktails at any time of day. Sip a verbena berry spritz or double peach bellini while listening to live music in the bar. In winter, the chalet-like ambience makes for a cosy backdrop to boho cabaret, drag or French chanson, possibly all performed by Antoine/Antwan, the starry hotel manager.
Above all, Monsieur Aristide wants his passing friends to feel at home in his arty bachelor pad. Summer means dozing in a deckchair in a Bohemian garden made for games of backgammon. Musical instruments may be borrowed by visiting musicians, with jam sessions sometimes taking place in the late afternoon. Winter might mean listening to your bedside vintage radio while leafing through Monsieur Aristide’s art and fashion books.
What’s the area like around Hôtel Monsieur Aristide?
While Montmartre can be touristy and even tacky, plenty of neighbourhood magic survives, from the villagey atmosphere to Paris’ sole surviving vineyard. For heritage hounds, the Musée de Montmartre is also close by, dedicated to the bohemian history of the ‘hood, and home to the arty Café Renoir, a handy spot for a light lunch of quiche and salad in the pretty museum garden. The lofty Basilica of Sacré Coeur is a magnet for first-timers and is conveniently reached on the Montmartre funicular. Movie-minded American guests are often fans of Emily in Paris so the hotel staff can suggest some of Emily’s favourite cafes. Film haunts aside, the surrounding streets are studded with foodie treats, with specialist shops for everything from cheese to oysters, or from gourmet chocolate to Insta-worthy macaroons.
Why you should book a stay at Hôtel Monsieur Aristide?
Much like at Hotel California, here you can check out any time you like but never leave. At Café Aristide, you can create your own playlist from the retro jukebox. On summer nights, an old movie may be playing in the outside courtyard. On the best nights of all, a crazy cabaret could be in full flow, with talented local singers or drag artistes taking to the floor. This is a boutique retreat made for couples ready to enter into the bohemian spirit of Montmartre. Yet, paradoxically, this eccentric place also works as a serene escape, with a secret garden room making you feel as if you left Paris on the wild side long ago. You are now ensconced in a vintage bedroom in a leafy village and ready for Sunday brunch. What happens in Montmartre stays in Montmartre – only Monsieur Aristide is in on the secret.
DETAILS
Address: Hotel Monsieur Aristide, 3 rue Aristide Bruant, 75018 Paris, France
Price per night: Classic rooms from €180 per night, Superior rooms from €230, and Junior Suites/Duplex from €400
Closest transport: Metro Blanche