Au Bascou

Don’t be fooled by this restaurant’s dubiously coloured walls, its unconvincing fresco of hortensias and its ill-assorted mix of furniture – they all belie a very talented kitchen and a brilliant Basque-inspired menu. With 11 starters, 19 mains and eight desserts, there’s ample mouth-watering choice, including plenty of Basque staples like stuffed Piquillo peppers, calamari fried in Espelette chilli and axoa (a traditional veal stew), which is particularly well done here. There are also a number of French bistro classics such as andouillette, snails, pheasant with cauliflower, veal steak and a fantastic plate of fried oyster and girolle mushrooms. Overall, our favourites include a smooth, fresh starter of Basque ham, and an exceptional main of duck fillet pan-fried in foie gras. Puddings are equally successful, like the two creamy raspberry and chocolate biscuit desserts.

Portions are generous, and with prices in the higher range for bistro food (it’s €10-€22 for a starter, €18-€34 for a main and €8-€12 for a dessert), you might hope so. But generally speaking, you can get away with a good full three-course meal for €36 – a steal given the quality of the food on the table. If only they’d get rid of that fresco.

TRANSLATION: HUW OLIVER