If there was an award for pure Frenchness, Au Bougnat would win one. A little low-ceilinged neighbourhood bistro at the corner of two medieval back streets, no.46 is one of just six remaining houses of an original 26 that have stood on Rue Chanoinesse since before the French Revolution. Little about the building has changed, including the crowd. To this day, it’s elbow to elbow French on their lunch hour or theatrically grumping about their day after work. Frogs’ legs with parsley butter; entrecôte steak, chips and green salad; apple tart with ice cream - Au Bougnat’s daily changing menu joyfully skips through the traditional French food hall of fame, hand in hand with fresh produce, singing seasonal songs as they go.