Au Train de Vie

Situated by the tracks between the Gares de l'Est and du Nord, Au Train de Vie is well known among Parisians for its eye-catching high-concept décor: everything here, from the seats to the toilets, is modelled on the interior design of a steam train. As you sit sipping a beer on an authentic SNCF banquet, subconsciously awaiting the heavy lurch that announces the train's departure, you'd be forgiven for thinking you've stepped outside reality and into a trainspotter's wet dream. It's all nice and novel until you realise that the food is ploddingly second-class: pedestrian rump steaks (€13.50), cheap 'n' cheerful salads (€9.50) and the like. But if presentation takes precedence over substance, that's not to say Au Train de Vie doesn't make for a pleasant pit stop if you're in the area. Those armed with a laptop will appreciate the calm atmosphere and free WiFi.