Bac Saint-Germain restaurant in the heart of Paris' Left Bank is an utterly charming example of how to make a stylish and modern restaurant irresistible. The decor is mainly wood with upholstery in tones of celery and sage and tomato. The rear, libraryish dining room is skylit and enjoys a roaring -- and very modern -- fireplace and all is comfortable, thoughtful and relaxed. The excitement comes from chef Olivier Metayer in the kitchen. Formerly with Alain Ducasse and Joel Robuchon, Metayer offers gastronomy that is imaginative and young, full of flavour and flair in frequently-changing dishes, like soft-boiled egg with morels cooked in their jus, roast chicken breast with baby veg and celery emulsion, soft chocolate cake with clementine coulis. Wines and service are excellent, too.