Decor-wise, the Nolinski hotel’s adjoining Brasserie Réjane hits all the high notes – a swish bar running along one side, petrol blue velvet banquettes, high ceilings and an ooh-la-la-look-at-me group dining table at the back. There’s even a tree in the one of the atriums. Only the soft porn photography hits a bum note: think lots of gaping mouths with various food items clamped in them.
Mains are classic brasserie dishes, plus off-piste additions like lasagne and risotto. Presentation is beautiful and the choice of sides is perfect for fussy eaters; fries, mash, cooked vegetables, salad or rice pilaf. But nothing really wowed – the mostly beige veg was lacklustre and an almost puritanically simple €27 poached cod dish arrived one peg down from lukewarm. A bavette steak with shallot sauce (€23) was nicely seasoned and better value than most other mains.
Renowned expert pâtissier Yann Brys’ desserts were presented as a mouthwatering see-and-order menu, which we loved almost as much as the desserts themselves – both the mango pavlova (€9) and crème caramel (€7) were excellent. The wine list is decent, if decadent, with the cheapest bottle of red at €28. Redeemed by its décor and desserts, Réjane is certainly worth popping in for a pre-opera aperitif (or post-show profiterole), as it’s practically in the shadow of Palais Garnier.