Le Café Moderne restaurant in Paris opposite the old Bourse – what a lot of fun with what a lot of style. Just like it says on the sign, this is a brilliantly modern, chic café with classic colours of cream-coloured walls, burgundy banquettes and upholstery, tables dressed in white and a constantly-changing array of artworks by exciting new artists. The bar area is dressed like a wine cave, with wooden wine crates standing in for side tables. Wines are passionately tested, scrupulously stored and enthusiastically offered here – on Monday nights great wines are sold at cost, an incredible bargain. The menu is both classic and modern, with dishes like roast veal with mushroom fricassee and sage jus. Lunchtimes it’s heaving with bankers and heavy hitters, but much quieter in the evenings.