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The rustic ground floor of this bistro bursts with well-rounded regulars, whereas upstairs is plain and bright. A wondrous ad-lib selection of starters might include hot chou farci and home-made terrine de foie gras. Equally impressive is foie de veau, coated in a pungent reduction of shallots and vinegar and served with potato purée. Puddings follow the same cornucopian principle as the starters. Opening hours are limited and booking ahead is essential, but the lunchtime prix fixe is a bargain.