The once-fashionable Omar doesn't take reservations, and the queue can stretch the length of the zinc bar and through the door. Everyone is waiting for the same thing: couscous. Prices range from €11 (vegetarian) to €24 (royale); there are no tagines or other traditional Maghreb mains, only a handful of French classics (duck, fish, steak).
Overstretched waiters slip through the crowds with mounds of semolina, vats of vegetable-laden broth and steel platters heaving with meat, including the stellar merguez. Even on packed nights, there's an offer of seconds - gratis - to encourage you to stay a little while longer.
|Venue name:||Chez Omar|
47 rue de Bretagne
|Opening hours:||noon-2.30pm, 7-11.30pm Mon-Sat; 7-11.30pm Sun|
|Transport:||Metro: Arts et Métiers or Temple|
|Price:||Main courses €12-€26|