It’s not every day an established chef describes his cooking as fun but that’s because Laurent Pichaureau enjoys doing things differently at Esens'all restaurant. This newcomer to the 17th arrondissement, near Rome and Villiers Metro stations, is causing a buzz with its multi-course French voyages of discovery that begin with a playful amuse bouche. Fresh flavours, textures and presentation ideas are produced with sometimes quirky cutting edge techniques that surprise the senses and get you talking. Courses are creatively matched with eclectic, ever-changing wines sourced largely from under-the-radar organic vineyards. Invite Esens'all’s savvy sommelier to talk you through the list. Charcoals and chocolates meet clean lines to form a modern dining room.