Gare au Gorille

A homely bistro set in a long, white-walled room studded with copper pipes, the Gare au Gorille's space has Scandinavian elegance and an exceptionally welcoming atmosphere. The menu changes daily, with three courses for €25 at lunch and €40-€50 per head at dinner. The kitchen has serious pedigree as well – both chef Marc Grébault and sommelier Louis Langevin put in time at the famous Septime.

And it shows. On our visit we started with a beautifully cooked piece of tuna with feta and lemon, fresh and bright, and a comforting fish soup topped with potato – full of perfectly balanced flavours and stuffed with haddock and a poached egg. Then a luxurious dish of cod with mussels flanked by slices of Jura sausage, and a flavourful lamb shoulder with Pardailhan turnips and crunchy cauliflower pickle. Then to finish, chocolate creams topped with grilled almonds and verbena ice cream. A good selection of wines is listed by region, making the Gare au Gorille an all-round winning opening.