Located at the left edge of the Marais, vegan burger restaurant Hank feels a little out of place next to the grander, more traditional Le Connétable on Rue des Archives. With its nondescript modern façade and 100 per cent vegan, fair trade menu, the younger business operates out of an incredibly small, sometimes stuffy, space (seating eight or so). Luckily, the nearby Square du Temple is the perfect setting for a takeaway order. The small, busy kitchen/servery can mean extra waiting time, but once you’re up the staff will helpfully explain the two different set menus (a reasonable €11 for a burger, side and drink, or €13 with dessert) and the four different burgers. Each has a basic core of vegan patty (made from soy milk, mushrooms and rice), red onion, gherkins and salad, and comes in a soft wholemeal bun (gluten-free for an extra €2). Drinks span standard fair trade softs (€3), beers and glasses of wine (€4).
The Allumé is the standout burger, with its gorgeous smoky barbeque sauce and generous tranches of red pepper (it also goes best with the vegan cheese), but La Catcheuse also impresses with its fluffy alfalfa grain and mustard sauce. Most vegan burgers end up dry and crumbly, but Hank’s patty manages to be soft and to hold together well, with a texture reminiscent of well-cooked tofu. The chips are standard lukewarm fries, but the vegan mayonnaise and coleslaw are brilliant accompaniments. Finish off with a decent squidgy cookie or carrot cake and you’ll be more than satisfied. Don’t be fooled: this is good vegan food, but it’s not exactly healthy.