Il Brigante

The décor is minimal and the atmosphere supercharged, with the white-hatted and –aproned chef preparing and firing his ample pizzas in the centre of the room, making a fine spectacle as he manages his team and feeds the big sharing tables. He maintains an admirable good humour, and his pizzas are thin-based, crunchy and generously loaded with fresh and flavourful ingredients. We loved the San Nicolas (ricotta, mozzarella, bresaola, rocket and parmesan, €16) and the Ronzatti (scamorza, marinated broccoli and Neapolitan sauce, €15), washed down with a carafe of Italian red (€12).

You’ll inevitably wait for a table or to take away. There are no reservations, and it’s hugely popular – but it’s worth the wait for one of the best pizzas in Paris.