Isami

One of the best sushi restaurants in Paris is tucked away on the bank of the Seine by the Ile Saint Louis. Isami's small dining room is simply decorated but for the rows of Japanses earthenware stacked behind the bar like a vast library, and in front of them the Itamae (master sushi chef) works away in a frenzy. He guts the fish with an expert hand and rolls the sticky rice and other ingredients in his palm with incredible precision, a constant movement, endlessly repeated in pursuit of perfection. It’s well worth watching during the time it can take to bring your order.

When it does arrive in a large terracotta vessel, it's hard to know where to begin. The salmon? The raw prawns? The omelette? The tuna? The squid? Everything is incredibly with freshness, bursting with subtle flavours, served as it should be at room temperature.

Beware: a Joh Sushi Moriawase assortment consisting of 15 pieces of seafood sushi will set you back €35. But freshness and culinary know-how come at a price, and this is a very special restaurant.