La Mer de Chine

Tucked away in an inconspicuous enclave of Paris's Chinese quarter, La Mer de Chine is an exception to the rule of heavy sauces and high salt content in many a 'Traiteur Asiatique': everything here is subtly flavoured, well executed and carefully thought out. The more adventurous could start with jellyfish salad, hundred-year-old egg doughnut or tripe; beginners stick to five-flavoured beef shank (€12.50), crispy lemon chicken (€12.80) or a soup like the petit potage with asparagus and crab (€6.50): simple, flavoursome and sesaring hot. To finish, some perfectly ripened mango.