A rare discovery in the usually disappointing Grands Boulevards area, Le BAT is hidden away behind a charmless frontage that you’d hurry past if you didn’t know better. A ‘tartare bar’ at lunch and ‘tapas restaurant’ at dinner, the young chef Yariv Berrebi has made himself comfortable behind an enormous square bar, flanked by brightly-coloured stools and accompanied by a whole brigade of young cooks preparing the tapas and Asian-influenced dishes. It's just what the neighbourhood needed, even if it didn't realise it.
Sitting at the bar is a real pleasure, or in one of the two enormous light-filled rooms, all blond wood and Scandinavian design overtones. At lunchtime, the menu gives some of the best bang for your buck in Paris (from €15.50 to €24). Trained by William Ledeuil at the Michelin-starred KGB, Berrebi has clearly got the chops for this gig – his culinary heritage shows up in precise seasoning (prawn ravioli in coconut and lemongrass bouillon), perfect cooking (grilled chicken and mushrooms with shallot confit delivers juicy meat and deliciously crispy skin) and surprising flavour pairings (a salad of squid, capers, hazelnuts and Thai vinaigrette).
At dinner the rooms fill up and the lights dim, and despite a rather lightweight wine list, the very reasonably priced tapas menu is a bright burst of energy on the often staid Boulevards. We like things like Mostarda beef tartare with aged parmesan, Galician beef with smoked potatoes or salmon tartare with vodka cream priced from €4 to €9. There’s little to complain about here.
|Venue name:||Le BAT|
16 bis boulevard Montmartre
|Opening hours:||Mon-Fri 12noon-3pm, 5pm-11pm; Sat 3pm-12mid|
|Transport:||Métro : Richelieu-Drouot ou Grands Boulevards|