This heart-warming bistro gets it right almost down to the last crumb. A starter salad of ris de veau illustrates the point, with lightly browned veal sweetbreads perched on a bed of green beans and baby carrots with a sauce of sherry vinegar and deglazed cooking juices. A roast shoulder of suckling pig and a thick steak with a raft of golden, thick-cut frites look inviting indeed. Desserts are superb too, including what may well be the best île flottante in Paris. If you're in the area at lunchtime, bear in mind that the prix fixe menu is remarkable value.