Le Grand Véfour

Opened in 1784 (as the Café de Chartres), this is one of the oldest and most historic restaurants in Paris. An à la carte meal begins with a fantasia suite of delicacies: tiny frogs' legs, for example, arranged within a circle of sage sauce; a first course of creamed Breton sea urchins served in their spiny shells with a quail's egg and topped with caviar. Fish dishes may be a touch overcooked, and the adventurous desserts are not always successful, but you'll forgive all after a glass of vintage armagnac.