This relaxed suburban restaurant is concealed in a quaint detached house near Montreuil, with two small courtyards and an impressive interior with a grand piano, a slot machine and oil paintings. The menu is extensive and well thought-out. There’s a fine selection of antipasti to start, like a plate of fine San Daniele prosciutto, strips of indulgent aubergine and parmesan shavings for €10. For something more substantial, opt for the unctuous soft-boiled egg served with crisp toast fingers, intense Iberian ham, rocket and punchy tomato jam. It’s all utterly moreish and goes down well with a glass of Côtes de Gascogne.
Mains range from a huge beef tagliata with a smooth olive oil mash (€24) to prawns spiced with lemongrass or plainer squid ink risotto (€18). The dishes are filling, but if you have room for dessert, the standout item is probably the stunning Paris-Brest éclair with piped praline cream. At around €40 for a full three-course meal with drinks, the ‘Jardin de Monteuil’ offers a good deal given the creativity of the food and the laid-back atmosphere of the setting. If you’re here at lunchtime, do take advantage of the €13.90 set menu.
TRANSLATION: HUW OLIVER