Le Parisien

Its mirrors and neon may stand out in the Saint-Martin area, but once seated with a menu you’ll realise that there’s nothing particularly showy about Le Parisien. There’s something comfortingly unpretentious about its old-school dishes (mussels, scrambled eggs), salt & pepper shakers and little side bowls of ketchup. This is a brasserie that does straightforward dishes well - especially their range of toasted sandwiches: salmon, dill & cucumber, brie – without neglecting the drinks side of the menu (San Bitter, a non-alcoholic Italian soft drink, is a rare but worthwhile find). Head there soon, before it’s discovered by the yuppie mob.