Le Petit Cheval de Manège (CLOSED)
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This little restaurant near the Bastille offers high-end tapas-style starters, mains and desserts. Crunchy caramelised pig ears with fennel confit share the menu with smoked herring with watermelon gaspacho and marinated cucumber, and chanterelle ragout with steamed egg, radish and ratatouille.
The prawn ceviche with heirloom tomatoes, olives, avocados and currants is a successful mixture of slightly acidic sweetness and saltiness and the octopus with Venere rice and yellow peach is original and succulent. The little dishes are attractively presented but quite expensive for their size (mostly between €8.50 and €13.50) so expect a steep bill, or stick to the three-dish set menu at €16.
The menu changes regularly, promising new and daring recipes every season. The team is very welcoming and the room pretty and pleasant with its red decor and period mosaic tiled floor. In summer the sunny little terrace provides a peaceful haven away from the busy traffic.