Le Sot l’y laisse
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Friendly waiters serve up faintly Japanese-inspired French cuisine in a quaint bistro setting.
This faintly Japanese-inspired bistro is concealed behind an old red façade on Rue Alexandre Dumas. Both inside and outside, the address has a peaceful air about it.
On our visit, friendly staff were happy to recommend dishes from the lunch menu (€25 for three courses). As an entrée, they suggested a tomato carpaccio, whose ingredients have been sourced from the famous market gardener Joël Thiébault (he also supplies exquisite address Martin). We should have listened – the house speciality of ‘sot l’y laisse’, or ‘oyster meat’, the two dark and tender pieces of meat located on either side of a chicken’s backbone, was rather weak. Limp and lightly seasoned, it was hardly a dish to confirm the meat’s gourmet standing.
By contrast, a main of white tuna with a meltingly soft risotto was succulent and perfectly tender. The stuffed roast quail and salad of green lentils was a little less exciting, but the meat nonetheless delicately cooked. To finish, a traditional crème brûlée is a great way to close, but drinks wise, the waiters – for all their friendliness – never actually brought us a wine menu.
It’s mixed bag of individual dishes here, and the service is hit and miss, but there are glimmers of greatness. Come here for lunch rather than dinner, as à la carte prices are high (starters are €14-€20, mains €25-€31, desserts €8-€11).
70 rue Alexandre Dumas
|Transport:||Metro: Alexandre Dumas|
|Opening hours:||Mon-Fri 12noon-2pm, 8pm-10pm, Sat 8-10pm|