You might as well be stepping straight from this 9th arrondissement side street into Maud’s kitchen – so warm is her welcome and the explanation of her little ‘bariolés’ (meaning colourful). These unique handmade triangles more than live up to their name; the ochre yellow, inky black, fuchsia pink and lime green shells are all dyed naturally with ingredients like beetroot and turmeric. Despite looking like kid’s party food, the combinations are spot-on – shells are textured somewhere between a soft lasagne sheet and a galette, with warm, delicately flavoured fillings. ‘Lulu’ was a hearty combination of grilled mushrooms, ham, soft cheese and onions – but the ‘tutti fromaggi’ – dyed black with squid ink - triumphed: honey-laced goats cheese, mozzarella and emmental. I could have eaten at least four more.
The lunch deal offers a choice of two, three or five bariolés with a daily-changing soup or salad with a coffee, tea or cold drink (€9.50-22). Three bariolés was just the right amount for lunch on a cold October day, two savoury and one sweet. Dessert bariolés are strudel-like, made using thin shortcrust pastry. Opt for the reassuringly simple 'rhusette', oozing with stewed rhubarb and apple with chunks of roasted nuts.
Despite a bustling lunch-time service, Maud and her staff don’t rush diners and the airy space is a sun-trap in the afternoon. Perhaps not the place for a romantic dinner, but this cute little café is just the ticket for breaking the lunchtime rut.