The only critcism to be made of Les Déserteurs is that it is exactly as one would expect: located in a neighbourhood that is quintessentially ‘cool’ and steeped in a gastro-bistro mentality, this restaurant offers complex medleys of flavour perfectly in step with current food trends.
The waiters’ spiel can be a little long, covering the preparation of each dish and the provenance of the ingredients. But that’s a minor quibble, because the food here really is excellent. Simple ingredients, craftily prepared, surprise with subtle, exotic influences (taken as much from Asian as from Breton cooking). The menu changes daily, which gives some sense of the immense precision and finesse that goes into these recipes.
We loved an appetizer of carrot tajine, followed by Vendéen pollack infused with bergamot and leek and an organic cheesecake with grapefruit sorbet for dessert. All this without one false note, and teamed with an excellent wine list. Prices are also exceptionally restrained, with a set three course menu at €28 – though dinner à la carte can run to €60 and above.
|Venue name:||Les Déserteurs|
46 rue Trousseau
|Opening hours:||Tues 7.30pm-10pm, Wed-Sat 12noon-2pm and 7.30pm-10pm, Closed Sunday and Monday|
|Transport:||Métro : Ledru-Rollin or Charonne|