Les Enfants du Marché
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This ex-Table chef makes palates sing at his Marché des Enfants Rouges restaurant.
What should I order? The Île de Groix mussels swimming in a gorgonzola sauce with calçots, a softened green onion from Catalonia.
There’s no menu or reservations here – what you see is what you get. We kick things off with Île de Groix mussels swimming in a gorgonzola sauce with softened calçots, a type of green onion from Catalonia. From his tiny kitchen, Masahide Ikuta (ex-Table) fires out some seriously killer dishes: black scallops with wild garlic, veal tongue carpaccio and pigs ears with ravigote sauce, pine nuts, fresh herbs and a Chioggia beetroot so finely sliced you can practically see through it. This is pure wizardry.
The monkfish is immaculate – killed using the Japanese fish-slaughtering technique ikejime, which involves letting all the blood drain to maintain the quality of the meat. It’s perfectly cooked with a butter sauce and chicory for a harmonious bitterness. But don’t leave without trying the La Trinquelinette jam, La Quiberonnaise sardines and Taka & Verno cheeses.
39 rue de Bretagne
|Transport:||Metro: Filles du Calvaire, Temple|
|Price:||Dishes €12-36, desserts €10.|
|Opening hours:||Tue-Sun 9am-5pm, (until 9pm Thu-Sat).|