Don’t come here expecting to get a fix of tikka masala or gulab jamun; Marcel is first and foremost a fusion restaurant, mixing Indian flavours with Western culinary traditions – and sometimes coming up with some overambitious projects on the plate. The postcolonial décor is a subtle and attractive mixture of gently distressed walls and contemporary lamps, and we swooned for the clubhouse armchairs that you can spot from the canal-side street outside – altogether, the ambiance succeeds a little better than the cooking. That said, for around €20, you get generous quantities, fresh ingredients and plenty of spice.
For brunch, Marcel offers a refreshing alternative to the endless pancakes with maple syrup on offer elsewhere. There are four set menus on offer priced between €20 and €25, main dishes with orange juice and mini-viennoiseries: salmon steak, malaï kofta, beef burger or vegetable tart. Our well-seasoned burger came swaddled in naan bread and flanked by mesclun leaves, slices of lemon and golden crusty potatoes.
90 quai de Jemmapes
|Opening hours:||Daily 10.30am-2am; Sunday brunch served 11.30am-4pm|
|Transport:||Métro : Jacques Bonsergent|