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Racines 2

Restaurants, Bistros Les Halles
3 out of 5 stars
Racines 2
© Stéphanie Fraisse

Time Out says

3 out of 5 stars

Friendly warning! We're working hard to be accurate. But these are unusual times, so please check that venues remain open.

Racine’s little brother is the rebellious one, with its tattooed young chef and Scandinavian-influenced décor from badboy designer Philippe Starck (we particularly like the antler lamps). In the open kitchen, the cooks only work with the best produce: Jambon Ibérico raised in the open air, dry aged beef full of concentrated flavours.

The ingredient-led chalkboard menu is short and to the point. We started with a puff pastry feuilleté with snails, cream of shallots and fresh herbs: generous and flavourful, the sauce far more delicate than the traditional garlic butter. Also, a lovely and unusually well-presented vitello tonnato (cold veal and tuna sauce).

For mains, pork belly with crisp vegetables, which showed that pork can be a gourmet meat, and a reassuring hunk of perfectly rested and cooked beef with herby potato purée and mesclun salad. A slice of lemon tart was served without embellishment, as if to say ‘it’s so good, what else do you want?’ – we could only agree. And while we easily ran up a bill of over €50 per person, with the starters at around €15 and the mains between €25 and €30, this fancy bistro will easily find a clientele in the area who won’t be fazed by the prices.




Address: 39 rue de l'Arbre Sec

Transport: Métro : Louvre - Rivoli
Opening hours: Du lundi au vendredi de midi à 14h30 et de 19h45 à 22h30
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