A deli, a bistrot, a sandwich shop, a salon de thé, a tapas bar… 58 Quality Street is a lot of different ideas for a contemporary Parisian eatery all rolled into one. But no matter what you call it, it offers very reasonably priced, quality food to take away or to eat in, with a charming Spanish inn-style décor. Underneath a sign for ‘La Grande Vadrouille’ there’s an enormous countertop full of condiments, cheeses, fruits and vegetables, plus shelves overflowing with bottles of wine and terrines and a few wicker baskets hanging from the ceiling under old lamps.On the menu you’ll find a mix of dishes from creamy polenta with mozzarella and ham, cod brandade, a plate of maki or charcuterie. But there’s no kitchen to speak of – instead, chef Hirotaka Okata and his team get by as best they can what the (sometimes unconventional) tools they have: a microwave to heat soup, a blowtorch to grill chicken skin, a rice cooker, a polenta machine. None of the results are standouts, but the ideas are sound and the dishes generally pleasing. Overall, it’s the very reasonable prices, the friendly atmosphere and the quality and freshness of the produce that is the draw here (excellent cheeses, delicious charcuteries and quality wines). It’s best to come for a quick bite on the go or an aperitif and a nibble while admiring the décor.