Rivié, Hoxton Paris
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All-day feeding pleasure.
If we know one thing about Hoxton Paris is that they don’t want to be ‘just another hotel’. Thankfully, they are not. There are several ways to pass the time - none them involving sleeping. The restaurant, Rivié, is named after Thomas de Rivié, diplomatic advisor to Louis XV, who the fine hôtel particulier that the Hoxton occupies.
What Hoxton do so well is creating an aesthetic and ambiance that feels simultaneously fresh and homey at the same time. An open plan space with a central unit of leather benches, round tables dotted around, an expansive bar area, and several cosy sofa areas. Each space overlaps into the other, restaurant into the lobby, lobby onto the terrace. So whether it’s a morning meeting requiring a fresh juice, chia pudding or avocado and poached eggs; or a refueling lunch of baby chicken and roasted cauliflower; spicy squash and tahini salad; or a classic Hox burger, you’ll find a dish to suit you.
Come dinner time, with the throngs filling the courtyard (perhaps they’ll be some live music or event when you turn up), Rivié comes into its own. Called small and large plates rather than starters and mains, although it’s the same thing, but your choice to eat as you wish.
Small plates include a chunky terrine (changes) which roasted pears, which were a great sticky sweet accompaniment; dorado ceviche with sweet potato, avocado, plantain - acidity not quite balanced out; a comical snails on toast for fun.
Mains have a good distribution of meat, fish and vegetarian. Salad Hoxton with braised octopus (perfectly cooked), new potatoes, poached egg and fenil confit; fish of the day with fried courgette flowers, provencal vegetables, salsa verde; a vibrant puttanesca; and a 250g entrecôte, plus the roasted baby chicken and Hox burger for meat eaters.
Desserts aren’t anything original but there’s what for if you’re still hungry. Eton Mess and Tarte Tatin however are a bit weighty after a full meal.
Drinkswise there’s a concise cocktail list - go upstairs to Jacques Bar for something more innovative - and a safe but strong wine menu, and waiters give good advice. Which brings us to the service, the second thing that Hoxton nails. OK all the staff are way cooler than you but they’re so ridiculously nice, you’ll end up wanting to be friends.
30–32 rue du Sentier
|Transport:||Metro: Bonne Nouvelle|
|Price:||Small plates from €6, large plates from €15, desserts from €6. Wine by the glass from €7|
|Opening hours:||Open Daily, Sun–Thu 7am–11pm, Thu–Sat 7pm–1.30am|