Tucked down a cobbled alleyway near Abbesses, this hole-in-the-wall ice cream boutique adds a splash of real colour to the touristy 18th arrondissement. With its lemon-yellow, cartoonish frontage and squiggly shop logo (apparently reflecting the aesthetic of the 1954 film of the same name), Scaramouche is the second hit opening from best-selling American author Elizabeth Bard and husband Gwendal Auffret. Their first was in Céreste (a remote village in the Alpes de Haute-Provence region), and in both outlets they set out to use fresh, seasonal ingredients sourced from carefully selected Provençal producers (a list can be found here).
There’s a diverse mix of ice creams and sorbets available (29 in total), covering both classics and more obscure flavours, from a splendidly gooey blend of rosemary, olive oil and glazed pine nut kernels to a potent take on gianduia. Perhaps the most superb offering is the smooth ewe’s milk yoghurt, which has a much more intense taste than your standard frozen yoghurt (and yet goes with pretty much anything). Some of the more interesting sorbets include a daring basil flavour and, for an alcoholic kick, Henri Bardouin Pastis.
Orders come served in tubs or waffle-style cones in almost laughably bulky scoops, and are priced with tourists in mind (it's €3 for one scoop, €5 for two, €6.50 for three or €8 for four). There’s no space inside, but if the weather’s nice, you can either sit out on one of the eight brightly coloured chairs or lap it up on your way up to Sacré Coeur. Alternatively, you can ask to take away larger portions in insulated boxes (€12 for 500ml).