Taillevent

Prices here are not as shocking as in some restaurants at this level; there's a €80 lunch menu. Rémoulade de coquilles St-Jacques is a technical feat, with slices of raw, marinated scallop wrapped in a tube shape around a finely diced apple filling, encircled by a mayonnaise-like rémoulade sauce. An earthier and lip-smacking dish is the trademark épeautre - an ancient wheat - cooked 'like a risotto' with bone marrow, black truffle, whipped cream and parmesan, and topped with sautéed frog's legs. Ravioli au chocolat araguani is a surprising and wonderful dessert.