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Restaurants, Creative contemporary Louvre
5 out of 5 stars
Verjus Verjus

Time Out says

5 out of 5 stars

Friendly warning! We're working hard to be accurate. But these are unusual times, so please check that venues remain open.

American team Braden Perkins and Laura Adrian started out in Paris running a well-regarded supper club, ‘Hidden Kitchen’, so it's little surprise that Verjus – opened in 2012 after rave reviews paved the way for a full-blown restaurant – hasn’t quite lost its word-of-mouth feel. You reach the small, stylish dining room through an unmarked iron gate on the Rue de Richelieu, up some well-worn steps and through a plain grey-painted door. The adorable, pocket-sized wine bar on the floor below is accessed via a different street altogether – Rue Montpensier, which runs parallel to the Jardin du Palais Royal. A discreet corner, then, in an achingly sophisticated neighbourhood – where Verjus is both charmingly at ease and elegantly distinctive. Though much patronised by Brits and Americans, the light, inventive, precise cooking deserves recognition across Paris.

There’s one eight-course tasting menu, updated monthly (plus an optional cheese board, and optional matched wines). At €60 a head without the extras, save it for a special occasion ­– but it will be special. On our visit, a Scandinavian-inspired plate of trout and potatoes brought a vivid citrus-cured curl of fish with slices of smoked potatoes and a salty scoop of bright orange roe – the best of the seaside in a couple of memorable mouthfuls. Creamy cherrystone clam soup had a piquant dash of harissa and a lingering, many-layered infusion of thyme and garlic, while thick slices of tender pink duck breast with their rich fat and golden skin nestled snugly on a bed of sharp winter sauerkraut. To close, an ambrosial cardamom honey panna cotta with prunes, pears and walnuts. These were the highlights – not everything sung out clearly, but that’s the licence of a tasting menu. Taken as a whole, with the well-priced wines by the bottle and glass, the easy-going, friendly bilingual staff and the general atmosphere of quiet contentment, Verjus is a genuine thrill.

The wine bar doesn't take reservations, but it does now offer a tantalising lunchtime set sandwich menu – and €15 for a taste of cooking this quality has got to be one of the best meal deals going in Paris.

By: EH



Address: 52 rue de Richelieu, 1e

Opening hours: Mon-Fri 7pm-11pm
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