Restaurants, French Quartier de la Gare
4 out of 5 stars

Behind its enormous bulk the BNF hides a clutch of charming venues, including some brilliant good value places to eat. Yuman has been open on the Rue Chevaleret since November 2013, offering enlightened organic cooking against an industrial decor, all concrete and plain wood and sophisticated lighting. Organic, local ingredients feed both the kitchen and the selection of produce stacked on the shelves – things like Italian Galvanina green teas, gourmet jams and preserves and flavoured honeys. There's a fabulous seating area in the 150m2 loft, and big tables on the terrace outdoors for sunny days.

Owner Gilles Tessier and chef Amandine Geers have produced a menu where the simplicity of the recipes belies the care taken over the details – flavourful pasta bows with mushrooms, creamy chicken risotto and unctuous pumpkin and sweet potato soup are­ lifted by a handful of grains here, a dash of coconut milk there, a few unusual spices. Dishes are around €7 on average, and set menus start at €8.40 for a soup and a drink – Yuman manages to make organic cooking both enticing and affordable.



Venue name: Yuman
Address: 70 rue Chevaleret
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 8am-10pm
Transport: Métro : Bibliothèque
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