Tholoniat

In business since either 1938 or the 19th century (nobody's quite sure), this patisserie-cum-chocolate shop in any case has an old-fashioned rustic charm to it. No concessions to fashion or contemporary food trends (lovers of organic need not apply); at Tholoniat, the action happens in the kitchen, whence impossibly crisp baguettes and tongu-tinglingly tasty confectionery are churned out on a daily basis. The varieties of chocolate – Cointreau, almond – should keep your tastebuds busy, the darkest clocking in at 68% cocoa. But the pièce de résistance is the semi-freddo: a cake consisting of a custard base, warm caramel and nougat centre and sponge topping, which is worth the trip in itself.