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Isabel Putinja

Isabel Putinja

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On the olive trails of Istria

On the olive trails of Istria

Thanks to its sun-drenched climate and high-quality produce native to its soil, Istria is known for its fine gastronomy. One of the many exceptional products produced here for millennia, and a key ingredient in the local cuisine, is extra-virgin olive oil. The Romans planted trees here in what is the northernmost part of the Mediterranean where olives can thrive, pressing what they called liquid gold from the drupes. This long tradition continues today and has picked up over the past two decades thanks to incentives and an injection of investment at regional and municipal levels. Like Istria's wine industry, the emphasis here is not on quantity, but small-scale and high-quality. In fact, Istria was named the Best Extra Virgin Olive Oil Region in the World for the past seven years by Flos Olei, a guide that ranks some of the best examples from around the globe. Of 500 best producers from 55 countries listed in their 2022 edition, 66 hailed from Istria. Not bad for a country with a tiny production compared to biggies like Spain and Italy, and firm proof that it’s all about quality and not quantity. Sasa Miljevic/PIXSELLOlive oil, Vodnjan There are close to 100 producers in Istria making high-quality extra-virgin olive oil. Most of these are small and family-run, often with several generations working together in their ancestral groves. Many Istrian producers have won a slew of awards from well-known olive oil competitions around the globe which give their oils a further stamp

Rail to trail in Istria

Rail to trail in Istria

Parenzana is the defunct railway that was reset in motion as a scenic walking and cycling trail. Follow along this historic path crossing bridges, passing through tunnels and over viaducts through bucolic landscapes dotted with hilltop towns. The Parenzana was long a ghost railway when it finally got back on track in a new form, 100 years after it first opened in 1902 during the Austro-Hungarian empire. In 2006, its defunct railbed was resurrected as a recreational walking and cycling trail and christened the path of 'health and friendship' for its 123km-long path that links the three countries sharing the geographical peninsula of Istria: Italy, Slovenia and Croatia. Today this off-road trail traces the route once taken by the Parenzana's steam locomotive, crossing 11 bridges, passing through nine tunnels and over six viaducts through bucolic landscapes dotted with hilltop towns. But the family-friendly Parenzana is much more than just a recreational trail. Cyclists and walkers following this former narrow-gauge railway line also trace Istria's history as they make their way along its gravel pathway. The ghost railway journeys across borders and past landmarks which stand as reminders of a forgotten past, a time when the railways were the only link with the outside world. They forged commercial links and brought an economic boon to rural areas. The Parenzana trail is also a relic of the peninsula's political past as a region that was juggled between various kingdoms, rulers

Going green in Istria

Going green in Istria

The effects of climate change are increasingly being felt in many parts of the world as changing weather patterns are more and more noticeable with each passing year. At the same time, global tourism numbers are rising and putting stress on natural resources. As we enter a new decade and work toward the goals of the Paris Agreement to limit global warming, it's increasingly clear that the future of travel has to be sustainable. With this in mind, local actors working in Istria's tourism industry have been exploring ways to preserve the environment and limit the negative impacts of tourism. In recent years, Istria has been bolstering its green credentials as an eco-friendly destination thanks to a number of forward-thinking actions put in place to protect its green spaces and natural ecosystem. This is an urgent need, considering the Istrian peninsula is an agricultural region and one third of its area is covered in forest. Many areas already have protected status to ensure the preservation of the region's unique biodiversity. More than 60 such protected zones in Istria, covering an area close to 175,000 hectares, are part of the EU's Natura 2000 network, which aims to protect threatened species and their habitats. © Labin Rabac Tourist BoardLabin Rabac Trail Great strides have been made to step up the eco-friendly ethos of hotels, tourist apartments and campsites by introducing sustainable practices. This is with an eye to not only save precious energy and resources, but al

All about location: Istria’s best summer festival settings

All about location: Istria’s best summer festival settings

Throughout July and August, a myriad of cultural events is being put on across Istria, many on open-air stages in unique historical and architectural settings. Here's our pick of some of the most atmospheric festival backdrops in Istria. Pula’s Roman amphitheatre – Pula Film Festival Pula's 1st-century Roman amphitheatre is by far the most spectacular of the dozen venues transformed into makeshift cinemas during this film festival, now in its 69th edition. What has become Croatia's biggest cultural event dates back to 1953 when Akira Kurosawa’s epic psychological thriller Rashomon was one of the first films screened here. To experience the delight of sitting under the stars among the ancient stones where Roman gladiators once entertained the masses, choose one of the alfresco screenings that take place here in the festival's biggest and grandest venue – or attend the opening or closing night galas. Pula Film Festival, July 16-24 © Labin Rabac Tourism BoardLabin Labin’s old town – Labin Art Republika Charming hilltop Labin takes on a festive vibe each summer for Labin Art Republika. Running throughout July and August, the festival's varied programme includes a dizzying schedule of live music, art exhibitions, and performances of dance, theatre and stand-up comedy. The free nightly walking tours of the old town are a chance to get to know Labin in the company of local guides. Labin Art Republika, July 6-August 25 Grožnjan – Jazz Is Back Each July, sweet Grožnjan, perched at 2

Worth the detour: Istria’s best rural retreats

Worth the detour: Istria’s best rural retreats

Move away from the beaches and head inland to find the soul of Istria. These countryside retreats offer a relaxed rustic vibe and a taste of the Istrian way of life. Apartments Pruga Set on the edge of the tiny rural village of Lovrinići near Pazin in central Istria, Pruga is a quiet escape offering B&B-style accommodation. A reconstructed stone house is divided into two split-level apartments with interiors done up in a chic contemporary style, with rustic furniture to add a touch of country glam. Kids love to splash around in the infinity-style pool overlooking the gardens or explore the neighbouring woods. A buffet breakfast served in the shade of a pergola gets rave reviews and includes freshly baked cakes, homemade jams and locally produced foods like honey and sheep cheese. Alternative diets are gladly catered for with advance notice and the friendly hosts are happy to share restaurant recommendations and tips on things to see and do in the region. Ask nicely and they may even share the location of their favourite secluded beach. Lovrinići 14, Pazin  Bolara 60 Named after its address, this lovingly restored 250-year-old stone farmhouse near the hilltop town of Grožnjan plays host to those looking for a countryside break. There's the option to stay in the individual rooms in the main house of rustic stone walls and wooden beams, or the attached two-storey maisonette which includes a kitchen and is perfect for families. Bolara 60 is the labour of love of a culinary anthro