Hotel de Russie

Jean Cocteau called it heaven on earth, and you’ll see why as you sweep through the grand doors of the Hotel de Russie and into the sprawling courtyard, where a Renaissance-style garden climbs up the hillside beyond. Today, this stately hotel is one of Rome’s grande dames, though it wasn’t always thus – having opened in the 19th century as part of the urban replanning that gave the northern city centre some monumental swagger, it had a turbulent history in the 1900s before being relaunched as ultra-luxury digs by Anglo-Italian hotelier extraordinaire Sir Rocco Forte in 2000. Today, its grandeur sweeps you back to its glory days with refined rooms, a legendary bar and a wonderful outdoor restaurant. It’s a peaceful cocoon in the heaving city centre, and if you’re anything like me, you may not want to step outside.  

Why stay at Hotel de Russie?

Rome has plenty of five-star hotels, but the true grande dames are few and far between. This is one of them – originally designed by architect Giuseppe Valadier who rebuilt this northern end of the city centre in the early 1800s, he even added a Renaissance-style garden complete with palm trees and water features, stalking up the steep hillside at the back of the hotel. Everyone from Stravinsky to Julia Roberts has stayed here; Picasso and Cocteau plucked oranges from the trees that brushed up against their window. The place sizzles with glamour – now it’s your turn. 

What are the rooms like at Hotel de Russie?

Walking down the long corridors filled with classical-style reliefs and through the heavy door (great soundproofing by the way) you’re prepared for luxury – but inside, the overwhelming sensation is peace. This isn’t blingy, in-your-face luxury – it’s a brilliant blend of homely elegance, overseen by Olga Polizzi, Rocco’s sister (this, like all the Rocco Forte hotels, is a family affair). Of course the bed is cloud-like but the jaunty fabric headboard, brightly patterned cushions and striped blanket give it a feel of home, not hotel.  

I stayed in an entry-level superior room, which overlooked a quiet back street and residents’ roof terraces. Upgrade to a garden view and you’ll get the same room, only overlooking the De Russie’s famous garden (though you might not be able to pick oranges as Cocteau and Picasso did). Deluxe rooms are larger, adding sofas and chairs around a coffee table. The suites – again, you can choose between a city and garden view – are top of the range, but in an odd way feel more like a hotel than the rooms do. 

The standard is so high here that unless you’ve money to burn, there’s no real need to go for the top-tier rooms – in fact, if I had carte blanche, my pick would probably be a deluxe with garden view. My superior still had a bathroom bigger than my bedroom at home, with a marble bench in the huge shower, and vast double countertop (also marble, of course). The toiletries are by Irene Forte, daughter of Sir Rocco – her line of organic products, turbocharged by plants and fruit grown at sister resort Verdura in Sicily, is superb. 

Forgot your adaptor? No problem. There are US and UK plugs by the desk, USB and USB-C ports by the bed, and there’s even an adaptor to buy in every room if that still doesn’t do you. 

Whatever the category, it’s the little touches that make this special: a tiny carton of milk in the fridge to accompany your coffee or tea; the samples of Irene Forte skin cream left by the bedside each night; the bowl of fresh fruit replenished daily. Even the hairdryer is by GHD.

Which are the best restaurants and bars at Hotel de Russie?

If you think of the hotel as a horseshoe shape, the food-and-drink magic all takes place in that middle space. At ground level, its tables and chairs carefully arranged under sunshades, is the Stravinskij Bar, named after the Russian composer who stayed here in 1917. It’s an icon of Rome’s bar scene – the menu alone is 58 pages, including an artfully curated cocktail list conceived by Italian cocktail king Salvatore Calabrese, with everything from tea-based to palo santo-infused cocktails. You can also eat lighter dishes here.

During the summer season, there’s another popup bar upstairs on the garden terrace, overlooking the Stravinskij tables. For now, this is the Aquazzura bar, which looks like it should be on an Italian beach with its turquoise chairs and sunshades, but is actually a Mexican-themed joined (don’t miss the plantain chips with guacamole).

There’s only one restaurant, but you only need one when it’s this good. As you’d expect from the name, Le Jardin sprawls outside, at the foot of the Renaissance-style garden (there’s an indoor dining room too but in winter the outside tables are covered, so you can still eat relatively al fresco). This is a top-tier take on classic Italian food – think sublime grilled fish, burrata salads and chicken Milanese, as well as a spin on Rome icons like cacio e pepe ravioli. The service is impeccable. Breakfast is also served here by a super-friendly crew who feel unusually chatty for a five-star hotel.

What is the service like at Hotel de Russie?

You’d think that as a grande dame this is going to be snooty, right? Wrong. The house cats set the tone – instead of posh indoor cats, there are four adopted strays (two are kittens from 2025) that roam the courtyard and garden, snoozing on chairs and drinking from the water features. Staff are charming, from the doormen to the restaurant staff, whose cheeky chappy morning routines belie the hotel’s five-star status, and the Aquazzura bar staff who are delightfully lowkey. Housekeepers are also wonderful and a special shout-out goes to the doormen who handled my giant plastic bag of luggage with as much care as if it were designer leather. In fact, my only negative experience was on arrival, when my room wasn’t ready after check-in time. Less charming reception staff sent me to the bar to wait, telling me they’d fetch me as soon as it was ready, but never returned. 

What is the spa like at Hotel de Russie?

All Rocco Forte hotels are fortunate enough to have Irene Forte in charge of the spas. Cast aside all ideas of nepotism – she may be Sir Rocco’s daughter but she’s carved out a formidable niche while overseeing the brand’s spas, eschewing fancy but chemical-filled products for her own organic line made from fruit and veg grown at their Sicily resort. The treatments are blindingly good, too – try the Fit for You, a massage that’s tailored to your exact preferences, with the masseurs blending various techniques to hit all the right spots. The De Russie’s spa was revamped in 2025, and also includes a beautiful (if small) mosaic-swirled indoor pool and a decent-sized gym with Technogym equipment. If you want a genteel walk, you can wind your way up around the palm trees and flowers to the top of the steep garden. 

What’s the area like around Hotel de Russie?

For a chic stay in Rome, you couldn’t be better placed. You’re on the slick Via del Babuino, a five-minute walk from the Spanish Steps and the designer shops around Via Condotti, Rome’s fashion zone. The hotel brushes up against Piazza del Popolo, the enormous church-lined square designed by Valadier (you’ll find two of Caravaggio’s paintings in the church of Santa Maria del Popolo), while the famous Villa Borghese park is cantilevered up behind it. Rome’s ancient sites sit at the other end of Via del Corso, Rome’s main drag – you can reach them by metro from Piazza di Spagna, while enjoying this, the most elegant side of the city.

Why you should you book a stay at Hotel de Russie

The Eternal City has a lot of legendary sights, and this is one of them – for locals and visitors alike, the mere name of the De Russie is enough to make you put your shoulders back, sling on some glad rags and dream of the cocktails. Rome famously has dozens of unmissable sights – and if it’s within your budget, this is one of them.

DETAILS

Address: Via del Babuino, 9 00187, Roma

Price per night: Rooms start at €1,500 per night

Closest transport: Piazza di Spagna metro is a five-minute walk.

Book now: via Booking.com

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