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With its rear walls made of the piled-up amphora sherds that constitute the strange urban feature called Monte Testaccio, Flavio al Velavevodetto (the name means ‘I told you so’) has all the hallmarks of a genuine Testaccio osteria. The traditional fare is hearty and onesto – not hugely refined but filling and generally good – the service is friendly in a hurried Roman way, and the atmosphere is buzzy, noisy and young (with a strong contingent from the nearby music school as well as clubbers starting their night out). There are some outside tables for warm-weather dining.