Beetlejuice… Beetlejuice! I wanted to scream that name aloud upon entering The Hotel Castro. Why? Well, because the front door at this self check-in boutique opens into a slim hallway featuring hallucinatory black-and-white floor tiling and matching striped wallpaper that immediately conjures the famous bio-exorcist from the celebrated Tim Burton film (though I obviously would never dare say his name out loud three times).
If that kind of decor sounds a little bit idiosyncratic, (keep in mind we’re in a part of the city where you’re likely to pass men on the street window shopping in nothing more than a sock to cover their private parts), rest assured that overall The Hotel Castro is a slim and attractive treasure chest of a stay which houses 12 rooms ideally suited to the independent-minded traveler.
Why stay at the Hotel Castro?
The Castro is the indisputable queen of queer US neighborhoods and lodgers will find themselves just steps away from marquee attractions like the historic Castro Theatre (slated to reopen in 2026 as a live music venue), Harvey Milk Memorial Plaza (a tribute to the late civil rights leader), and the artifact-filled GLBT Historical Society Museum. The entire neighborhood pays living tribute to the ongoing struggle for gay liberation and queer vibes ripple all across its famously rainbow-splashed streets.
Meanwhile, San Francisco’s post-pandemic slump which, while somewhat overstated, has indeed led to numerous store closures and subsequent glum around Union Square where many upmarket hotels are clustered. By comparison, The Castro brims with bars, bistros, and bookstores and is well-served by public transportation, including a historic streetcar line. The Hotel Castro offers no-frills travelers an accommodation that’s cozy, charming and reasonably priced, as well as being smack dab in the middle of a happening neighborhood.
What are the rooms like at the Hotel Castro?
Seriously organised. A large, Scandinavian armoire was roomy enough to comfortably fit the contents of my carry-on luggage, and there were plenty of wall hooks, too. Above it hung a flat-screen TV perfectly positioned for bedtime lounging, and in a corner sat a dark leather sitting chair, a two-person round porcelain dining table, and a floor lamp decorated in shaggy tassels. A small balcony contained a single Acapulco chair and a turquoise Matrix stool, and the king bed was tucked into an alcove that fit the space like a puzzle piece. A mounted shelf contained a tissue box (way to know your audience), and the wall behind it contained a photo montage of LGBTQ civil rights icon Marsha P. Johnson.
The vanity was spacious and featured bath products from Grown Alchemist and Pharmacopia and underneath it was plenty of room for storage including a small, drawer-like mini fridge. The bathroom, meanwhile, featured honeycomb tiling, a walk-in rain shower for two, plus a hand-held nozzle. All the street-facing rooms, including mine, feature floor-to-ceiling windows so either I had to change in the bathroom or pull the curtains, and they not only prevented me from putting on an unintentional show, but also blacked out the room so I could properly cocoon each night.
What to eat at the Hotel Castro?
Tide yourself over until dinner with a jar of spicy paprika almonds, or, if you’re after something a little more filling, an Argentinian empanada stuffed with your choice of beef, mushroom or soyrizo. The stylish ground-floor hangout Lobby Bar offers a wide assortment of boozy tipples with cheeky names like tequila-focused Thirst Trap or the whiskey-infused D-E-Rye Hire. The compact food menu includes some hearty options like a smash-style burger with a side of steak-cut fries that really hit the spot. Oh, and don’t miss a visit to the Lobby Bar bathroom to check out its Andy Warhol wallpaper.
Meanwhile, just about every other Castro storefront is an appealing mom ‘n’ pop restaurant and the radar-worthy options you shouldn’t miss include newish Leadbetters Bake Shop, seafood joint Anchor Oyster Bar, gay-owned greasy spoon Orphan Andy’s Restaurant, and cozy and homestyle Chinese eatery Mama Ji’s—a real standout in a city famous for its Asian restaurants.
What are the facilities like at the Hotel Castro?
The entire hotel is self-service and on the day my reservation began, I received a single code granting me front door, elevator, and room access. Anxious person that I am, I always fret that my code won’t work for some reason, and that did happen once during my stay. In fact, a malfunction with the elevator keypad during early evening hours on a Thursday night meant that none of us could access our rooms for about 30 minutes until the daytime manager showed up to prop open the stairwell door. However, I received prompt and frequent status updates from the hotel regarding the situation and later received a $50 apology gift card which healed most wounds.
Aside from the Lobby Bar (which operates independently from the hotel) the only shared guest facility is a rooftop which is partitioned into two separate sections each with gasp-inducing views that reminded me why I love this city.
The street-facing side is sparsely decorated with woven Acupulco chairs and a single Ixtapa lounger. I swaddled myself in a sweater and inhaled partial views of the Castro Theatre, Mission Dolores, and distant city skyline. The back side, meanwhile, is homier thanks to an L-shaped, modular rattan lounger and a central concrete fire pit with wind guard and boasts hilly vistas. Even in often-cloudy San Francisco it was breathtaking to watch the fog spill across Twin Peaks and engulf the gleaming Sutro Tower.
What’s the service like at the Hotel Castro?
The Hotel Castro offers “touchless hospitality” which is its way of saying that communication requests are handled primarily via text message. A yellow telephone in the entryway puts guests in touch with the daytime manager who happened to be in the hotel when I checked in (and was friendly and responsive). A cleaning crew was also visible in the mornings, though I opted not to have my room made up during my stay.
What’s the area like around the Hotel Castro?
An eye-popping and meticulously maintained trio of Victorian homes sit right next to The Hotel Castro. Across the street you’ll find artisan market Mollie Stone’s, and while it’s not exactly a penny-pincher’s paradise, its pre-packaged sammies offer a decent bang for your buck. Directly facing the hotel is Theatre Rhinoceros, a non-profit theater company that has been around since 1977 and is devoted to plays about the LGBTQ experience.
Venture a block or two deeper into the neighborhood and things really get interesting. Queer Arts Featured is a stylish shop and event space located in the same storefront that once housed Harvey Milk’s camera shop and campaign headquarters. Local Take offers handbags, greeting cards, t-shirts and souvenirs crafted by Bay Area makers while queer-owned Fabulosa Books offers a myriad of indie and mainstream titles. The Castro is home to numerous LGBTQ bars like Badlands, The Edge, Moby Dick’s and Twin Peaks Tavern, a historic charmer noteworthy for its floor-to-ceiling windows.
Why you should book a stay at the Hotel Castro
The heart and soul of San Francisco is its vibrant neighborhoods (which, aside from The Castro, includes the Mission, Haight-Ashbury, and Russian Hill) and each one of them could use a lodging akin to the Hotel Castro. Travelers who’ve outgrown youth hostels, but have a DIY spirit will feel right at home in a hotel that may be short on frilly amenities, but hits the mark when it comes to comfort, neighborhood charm, and importantly, affordability.
DETAILS
Address: 4230 18th St, San Francisco, CA, 94114
Price: Starting at $165 per night
Transport: F-Market is the nearest streetcar, K, L, and M are the closest Muni
Book now: via Booking.com
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