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This cool-looking restaurant has managed to retain its popularity by combining a relatively exotic South Pacific concept and consistent execution. Sidestep the sometimes-can't-be-bothered attitude up front, join the crowd at the bar and peruse a menu that's made for grazing. The best bet is to keep ordering small plates (tea-smoked duck, braised short ribs, papaya salad) until either your waistline or your credit card goes pop.
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