Kokkari Estiatorio

Kokkari serves Hellenic cuisine—essentially an inventive and seasonal update of traditional Greek—that may indeed qualify as “food of the gods,” as it’s described. Start with marithes tiganites (crispy smelt with garlic-potato skordalia and lemon, or “fries with eyes,” as some folks affectionately call them) or some of the best grilled octopus in town. Then work your way up to traditional moussaka—a rich, creamy baked casserole of eggplant, lamb ragout and béchamel—and their famed lamb chops. Get the galatkoboureko and loukoumades for dessert—you saved room, didn't you? The restaurant has a rustic and welcoming feeling; it’s always popular for lunch and dinner, and fantastic for groups and celebrations (get a large fish for the table). It’s one of those San Francisco classics that always feels right, no matter the occasion.