Namu Gaji

Come for lunch (Wednesday through Friday) or weekend brunch and order the Gamja Fries, an experiment in Korean-American fusion that works. The saucy dish may not be pretty, but it's delicious. The hand-cut fries are laden with kimchee relish, gochujang (a pungent Korean hot sauce), Kewpie mayonnaise from Japan and bulgogi beef, a Korean dish steeped in a soy sauce-based marinade. The resulting concoction is a shock to one’s taste buds: garlicky, gingery, spicy, sweet and bitter. It's best eaten immediately—and quickly—before the potatoes lose their crunch.