Pho Tan Hoa

If Mau is serving up a modern take on pho, Pho Tan Hoa specializes in the tried-and-true standard. Here, simple, fresh ingredients shine. The close-set tables and loud volume lend a diner feel, but lingering is discouraged. In the traditional pho bo, the dark broth and thin, chewy rice noodles can be ordered with well-done brisket, rare steak, flank, tendon, tripe or beef balls. For a change of pace, try the pho kho, in which the broth is served on the side.