This bright blue storefront off a busy stretch of Divisidero might appear unassuming, but the cooking within is tongue-tinglingly bold. It’s run by Ajeet Mehta and his father-in-law, chef Ganesh Bankoti, who honed his culinary chops at the Taj Hotel in New Delhi. The low-lit, narrow restaurant barely seats two dozen at one time; as a result, the spot does a brisk take-out business. The menu features all the classics—curries, dosas, rice dishes and more—but the highlight is the chicken achar: pickled boneless chicken in a spicy, tangy sauce.
