Sodini's

Sodini's is small and darkly romantic, in a Chianti bottle as candle-holder sort of way. Patrons are jammed close together to enable their servers to squeeze past with platters of sloppy pasta and rib-sticking lasagne. The fact that it's off the beaten track doesn't dampen its popularity: be sure to arrive earlier than you intend to eat and sign the list; you can then drop over to a neighbourhood bar while waiting for a table. Once inside, the wine is cheap and in plentiful supply.